“Haider” was the name on everyone’s lips walking through the Tom Ford showroom on Thursday in Milan.
Haider Ackermann, the house’s new creative director, is already hard at work, presumably figuring out how to imprint his signature lyrical tailoring on his first Tom Ford collection, which will be presented in Paris in February.
In the meantime, spring 2025 was a studio effort. And as a baseline to reestablish the codes of the house, it more than delivered, mining the sexy, svelte 1960s and 1970s aesthetic that put Ford on the fashion map in a concise commercial collection with lots of great-looking sheer knits, liquid jumpsuits and blouses open to the navel over skimpy fringe skirts and short shorts — all in pale makeup shades, black and ivory.
The team didn’t dwell too long on the classic daytime tailoring of the Peter Hawkings era, but did include the slim leather blazers, trousers and playsuits, silky cargo pants, bombers and drawstring shorts with “Tom Ford” branded underwear peeking out, that the brand has been trading in during recent years in Los Angeles and beyond. Not forgetting accessories: The team brought back the padlock heel and introduced a new shape of its bestselling Tara handbag.
And they didn’t skimp on the eveningwear, offering a pistachio green featherweight metal sequin minidress ready for a stage, a silver metal fringe bandeau bound in snakeskin fit for a pop princess over low slung pants, and Lurex tuxedo tailoring begging for Ackermann’s touch. Soon enough.
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