More people could tell you what the celebrities were wearing than who won the Best Supporting Actress award this year (It was Da’Vine Joy Randolph, in Louis Vuitton). What chance do gold medallists in judo have against models in Celine?
Mother-daughter supermodels and brand ambassadors Kaia Gerber and Cindy Crawford attend the opening night of Omega House Paris 2024. Credit: Getty Images
Art was the next institution to receive a fashion glow-up. Anna Wintour’s Met Gala fundraiser, regularly referred to as the fashion Oscars, now overshadows the annual exhibition it supports in New York.
Louis Vuitton, Prada and Loewe have all made their presence known at leading art fairs, with fashion titles and The New York Times now covering the street style at Art Basel in Miami.
Countries have also submitted to the luxury fashion invasion. In 2007, I watched from the Great Wall of China, built to keep enemies at bay, as models paraded in Fendi before the luxury logo was projected on the surrounding hills, signalling the arrival of countless boutiques.
The Olympics are next.
Sport’s time to shine
Fashion is already a part of the Olympics, with athletic labels Nike, Adidas and Volley making their presence felt on the podium for decades, but luxury’s elite messaging is different. It’s easier to imitate athletes in affordable sneakers than expensive designer attire from Berluti, who outfitted the French team.
A Berluti suit worn by French athletes during the opening ceremony.Credit: nna\BGossling
The Olympic creed says, “The most important thing in the Olympic Games is not to win but to take part”, but few viewers have the pay packets to take part in a luxury spending spree. Even the US women’s water polo team had members working three jobs to support their activities before the arrival of rapper Flavor Flav as a sponsor.
Luxury fashion has a place in this world, pushing the boundaries of design, technology and taste. As a style editor, I revel in the exquisite craftsmanship that went into the creation of Celine Dion’s gown decorated with 500 metres of fringing and thousands of beads. But fashion already has countless opportunities to shine without gatecrashing this party.
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Twice a year at the haute couture shows in Paris, we witness the sublime talent of the Dior atelier before seeing swoon-worthy gowns rolled out on red carpets around the world. Surely, once every four years we can let the prowess of athletes take centre stage?
Some dismiss the prevalence of luxury labels at the Paris Games as a suitably French thing. France is the home of fashion but thanks to that €150 million deal we are only celebrating a slice of Parisienne style.
French labels such as Chanel, Schiaparelli and Saint Laurent, which sit outside the LVMH stable, have been kept out of the competition. This is about publicity as much as patriotism.
Sport has put up a good fight against a fashion takeover. Horse racing was conquered by hats and tight dresses, Ralph Lauren’s style dominates Wimbledon and the Australian Open and Formula One drivers are becoming fashion pin-ups.
It’s inevitable that luxury fashion will take gold at these Olympics, although those medals could be changed to platinum – it’s more expensive and goes with everything.
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