‘We were sent to hell’ – Hong Kong fermented tofu shop nearly 120 years old shuts suddenly

The finished product has a distinctive pungent aroma and yielding texture that has been likened to ripe soft cheese, and it is an essential ingredient in traditional Cantonese dishes such as stir-fried water spinach, and lamb stew with bean curd sheets.

A bottle of Liu Ma Kee Limited preserved bean curd. Photo: Stanley Shin

Liu Ma Kee featured in a Hong Kong Tourism Board campaign in 2021 to boost travel to the city by spotlighting heritage businesses and hidden gems. Jay Liu Fong-yip, part of the fourth generation of his family to run Liu Ma Kee, told the Post back then that he hoped the campaign would encourage more local customers to visit the shop.

On July 18, images of the long-standing store with its shutters down and with paper notices saying “closed” and “closed for business” were posted to social media.

Liu Ma Kee’s product is used in a variety of traditional Cantonese dishes. Photo: TVB Scoop

On July 4, the Hong Kong government’s Centre for Food Safety published an alert warning that tests on a batch of bottled fermented bean curd taken from a Sai Ying Pun retailer had shown unsatisfactory levels of bacteria Bacillus cereus.

Test results had shown that the sample contained Bacillus cereus at a level of 130,000 per gram – the threshold for safe consumption is 100,000 per gram. The public was advised not to consume the affected batch, and the vendor was instructed to stop sales of it. Liu Ma Kee followed instructions to recall the affected batch.

Jay Liu’s mother, Mrs Liu, contacted Scoop, a Hong Kong television programme broadcast by TVB, to air her concerns following the investigation. It aired an episode in which she told how a representative of the Centre for Food Safety had visited Liu Ma Kee’s Yau Ma Tei store on July 3 to request a bottle of fermented bean curd for follow-up testing, as the sample taken from the Sai Ying Pun retailer did not have a clear best before date.

A photo posted by a Facebook user on July 18, 2024, shows Liu Ma Kee’s store shuttered with handwritten notes pasted up announcing its closure. Photo: Facebook

She claimed that the centre put out its alert about the fermented bean curd batch before the results of its tests came back, and that a member of the centre’s staff had told them on July 8 that tests on the sample from its store came back with a satisfactory result.

Mrs Liu told Scoop that since the centre issued its alert, customers had been coming in their droves to return purchases – even bottles that had already expired.

“Overnight, we were sent to hell. Customers no longer trust us,” she told its reporter. “What can I do, should I close down the store? I’d rather not continue any more.”

Mrs Liu, a member of the family that has run Liu Ma Kee for 119 years, in a still from a TVB Scoop episode in which she expressed her frustration at the way Hong Kong government food safety staff treated the business. Photo: TVB Scoop

However, a subsequent report issued by the centre on July 16 announced that a new sample taken from a bottle of Liu Ma Kee fermented bean curd with a best-before date of August 7, 2025 was found to have a Bacillus cereus level of 1,300,000 per gram – 12 times the recommended level for safe consumption.

The Post has reached out to the Centre for Food Safety and Liu Ma Kee’s owners for comment.

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