Korea also has its own version, called bingsu. But why is it not as popular as kakigori on the world stage?
“I think Japanese shaved ice is definitely in its own category,” says Kaila Imada, owner of the kakigori-focused Instagram account @kakigori.kaila.
Kakigori is made of a base of just pure ice. According to Imada, some shops pride themselves on where their ice comes from, like using natural ice from the Japanese Alps.
The treat is finished off with a variety of flavours and fillings, from seasonal fruit to confectionery.
“I think one of the reasons kakigori has become so popular is because of all the unique and creative toppings and fillings you can enjoy,” Imada says.
“For instance, Japan is known for its amazing fruit, so when you can get shaved ice covered in a sauce made from perfect Japanese strawberries, you know it’s going to be good.”
Jeong Sang-hyub, chef de cuisine at Park Hyatt Seoul, believes the difference is in the toppings and the texture of the ice.
“Bingsu tends to have richer toppings compared to kakigori. While kakigori usually features syrups, smooth sauces or fruits, Korean bingsu often features thick toppings like tteok [rice cakes], red beans, yokan [sweet bean jelly] or large fruit pieces,” he says.
“Additionally, the ice particles in kakigori have a crunchier texture, whereas bingsu ice is finely shaved, melting smoothly in the mouth like snow.”
The origin of shaved ice desserts is a contentious one, with both Japan and Korea laying some claim to its invention.
The Japanese can date the existence of kakigori as far back as the Heian period (794-1185), with it referenced in The Pillow Book, a collection of observations and musings published in 1002 that were recorded by Sei Shonagon during her time as court lady.
However, it is argued that the area from where kakigori originated was Korean territory under Imperial Japan.
What we do know is that the toppings and accoutrements unique to patbingsu – bingsu with red bean, the most common variety – started being noted in Korea from the Joseon dynasty, which began in 1392.
Of course, the spirit of shokunin, or meticulous craftsmanship, that the Japanese are renowned for has been applied to the making of kakigori. A lot can be done with the simple recipe of shaved ice and syrup.
“I found that some [makers] have really thought about how to perfect the texture and the structure of their kakigori,” Imada says. “Some shops have created their own technique to help the ice melt more slowly. One kakigori maker I met said he tries to create a hollow centre to keep [the shaved ice] from melting too quickly.”
The strengths of Korean culture, meanwhile, are its adaptability and aesthetics.
“Korean bingsu also focuses on aesthetic presentation, often enhanced by special performances from the chefs, aiming to provide both visual and gustatory delight,” Jeong says.
“Many younger generations enjoy bingsu not just for its taste but also for its Instagram-worthy appearance, leading to rapidly changing trends that cater to their preferences.”
Recently, mango bingsu has become a trend, especially with the younger generation, who enjoy sharing photos of their desserts on Instagram.
Bingsu is one of the signature menu items at the Park Hyatt Seoul and is one of the biggest sellers during summer. Its patbingsu – consisting of a milk base topped with sweet red beans and injeolmi rice cakes covered in roasted soybean powder – is very popular.
However, fruit-flavoured bingsu have become more popular in recent years in tandem with the rise in popularity of Korean fruits.
“We elevate bingsu by using seasonal fruits such as persimmons and cherries, and we have introduced a version made with Jeju apple mango, which has quickly become a favourite among our guests,” Jeong says.
The fact that the icy dessert is served with a side of panoramic city views from The Lounge on the hotel’s 24th floor adds to its popularity, but both Jeong and Imada agree that it is not difficult to enjoy either kakigori or bingsu in the middle of summer.
“Kakigori is not always so fancy,” Imada says. “The classic types you’d find at a festival would be a snow cone with different syrups. That has its own charm, too.”
Jeong says he still remembers eating bingsu with friends after school from a snack shop in an alley on his way home.
“Back then, it was just ice made with water, topped with milk, cheap red beans, jellies and small rice cakes. Though it wasn’t much, the refreshing feeling of eating it on a hot day is a good memory.”
