Highlights of Seoul Fashion Week AW25

At Seoul Fashion Week, Korean brands showcased their preparations for the colder months, yet it wasn’t just conventional outerwear they were packing. The segment offered unique pieces featuring innovative silhouettes and cuts, thick wool coats, and even complete outdoor gear, including tents and backpacks, incorporated into jackets. Beyond outerwear, however, new looks for the office and the after-party, as well as statement streetwear, contributed to a full programme in the South Korean capital.

FashionUnited has summarised the highlights of the AW25 season for you.

Streetwear with a message

For autumn/winter 2025, streetwear brand Ajobyajo explored the proverb: “All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.” The idiom, playful drawings, and the brand logo appeared as large prints throughout the collection.

Overall, the collection presented a familiar streetwear aesthetic, built upon diverse silhouettes, workwear jackets and hoodies. These were complemented by layering, cut-out elements and fringe details. The predominantly black collection partially concealed the models behind dark sunglasses, large hoods and baseball caps pulled low over their faces, creating a rather somber impression. Only a few looks in shades of lilac, beige, grey and brown brightened the collection somewhat.

Duckdive also showcased a darker collection, blending the various characters of an early 2000s schoolyard with modern styling. Gothic princesses in black puffed tulle skirts, chunky boots, and striking silver jewellery met athletes in tracksuits and casual skaters in bomber jackets and cargo pants. Of course, there were also the It-girls, dominating the school as clique leaders in their short skirts and tops.

Together, they embodied a time less shaped by digitalisation than that of today, where interpersonal interactions were primarily face-to-face. With this collection, the urban brand aimed to draw attention to this very shift and how we interact and communicate.

Duckdive sought to convey the call for respectful interaction with various large packages carried by the models. This physical form of shipping symbolically represented the transmission of the message.

New shapes for the office

The brand Phenomenon Seeper employed asymmetrical cuts, layering, and a mix of materials for its approach to the modern office uniform. Classic pieces like the suit were recontextualised. A knee-length skirt with a slit, inspired by a pinstripe blazer, for example, revealed a glimpse of straight-legged suit trousers. The model paired this with a draped vest featuring an asymmetrical cut.

Meanwhile, another look combined a tweed-like pattern with a beige fabric. Together, they formed a two-piece ensemble consisting of a short jacket and an asymmetrical long skirt, incorporating patchwork elements. Here, too, details like a side pocket and double-breasted buttons, typically used on blazers and coats, reappeared.

Re Rhee also utilised layers and classic pieces like pinstripe trousers and blouses. However, the brand was another to bridge the gap to the after-work look. For instance, the sleeves of a long jersey dress were detached, revealing more skin. Fur pieces, ranging from off-the-shoulder wraps to a sleeveless fitted dress and a long coat, reinforced the eveningwear approach. Long leather gloves, matching ankle boots and high heels completed the looks.

Weatherproof

Kumann Yoo Hye Jin demonstrated particular strength in outerwear, proving the importance of a statement coat. The brand presented various jacket styles, ranging from classic coats to sportier rain jackets, playing with different lengths. A cropped jacket was paired with wide-legged trousers featuring cargo pockets.

Meanwhile, knee-length to long coats attracted attention with curved closures and unique collars – including a wavy shape transitioning into a shoulder cape. The collection’s colour palette focused on typical autumnal hues like greens, browns, black, grey and navy blue.

Designer Lee Chung Chung embarked on a camping trip with his brand Lie, incorporating the necessary equipment into his sports- and outerwear-oriented collection. Hiking backpacks and sleeping bags were transformed into jackets and dresses. A whole tent even formed a raincoat. Materials like tent canvas and the frame, including poles and mosquito netting, appeared in various pieces. Details like drawstrings and carabiners completed the collection.

The all-rounders

Moo Yeol Lee, a 2019 finalist for the International Woolmark Prize with his brand Youser, proved himself an all-rounder this season. The designer combined elements from the other brands.

The “Frame & Window” collection integrated a mix of workwear fabrics incorporated into suits and played with silhouettes and layering. Particularly striking were jeans and sweatpants transformed into bubble skirts. The collection was complemented by outerwear such as long, elegant coats and fur pieces like a windbreaker. This bridged the gap between a more urban look to modern workwear and evening attire.

Daily Mirror also combined various influences, placing a particular focus on traditional denim, which met different textures like tweed, Re-Nylon, and wool. Simple suits were transformed into double-breasted coats. The garment’s collar and side pockets appeared as details on a skirt. A white shirt became a voluminous train, while a tight, long dress with a side slit contrasted with a cropped bomber jacket.

The brand pursued a more sophisticated approach than Youser’s streetwear collection, but also incorporated an urban flair with raincoats, hoodies and the use of denim.