Reflections | Why Malaysian and Singaporean food hasn’t gone global, but Chinese food has

Following the publication of my column last week on yusheng – prosperity toss salad – I was asked why Malaysian and Singaporean cuisines have yet to gain global recognition.

If they are really that good, foods like bak kut teh, laksa and nasi lemak should roll off everybody’s tongue in the same way as pho, sushi and tom yum goong.

Perhaps Singaporean and Malaysian food is simply not as good as we think it is. But I refuse to believe that.

Unlike the more famous cuisines in the world today, the export of our foods did not follow the barrel of a gun or hitch a ride on the waves of our countries’ popular culture and economic strength.

Singaporean bak kut teh. Photo: Jonathan Wong

Another reason may be that our diasporas – whether temporary sojourners working elsewhere or new citizens of their adopted countries – do not have the critical mass of say, the Vietnamese, Thais and Chinese.

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