5 Newcomers with a fresh vision

Berlin Fashion Week, once an underdog, is increasingly carving out a position amongst the major Fashion Weeks in Paris, Milan, and London. Established names like GmbH and Marie Lueder are returning this season, which starts today, to showcase their latest collections. The German capital also thrives on a dynamic mix of established and emerging brands, breathing fresh air into the metropolis.

Some of the newcomers have already celebrated international success, while others are about to present their first runway collection at a major fashion week. These up-and-coming brands bring a healthy dose of DIY aesthetics with a dash of upcycling, along with fresh ideas and creativity.

Colrs

Colrs was founded in 2017 by Zec Elie-Meire. The Haitian-German designer started with simple upcycling projects in his childhood bedroom and later studied Men’s Tailoring at the Esmod fashion school in Paris.

At Colrs, it’s always summer. A sense of lightness and joy permeates every collection. Elie-Meire blends his multicultural background with a style inspired by joy and punk, exuding a certain naiveté.

Elie-Meire presented his first runway collection in Lagos, Nigeria. Colrs was also represented last season at the New Wave Showroom of Berlin PR agency Reference Studios during Berlin Fashion Week, followed by the Berlin International Sales Showroom in Paris in September. Now, the brand returns to the runway, showcasing its collection for the first time in a show format in Berlin.

For the current collection, the designer draws inspiration from the “effortless cool” of former Fiat CEO Gianni Agnelli and the confidence of 1950s racing drivers like Stirling Moss and Juan Manuel Fangio.

Kasia Kucharska

The Berlin-based brand Kasia Kucharska, founded in 2021, reinterprets traditional craftsmanship with technologically advanced manufacturing techniques. Instead of sewn garments, the brand focuses on latex products crafted using a specialised printing technique. Kasia Kucharska processes liquid latex, adds colour pigments, and then prints the final pattern pieces. This approach aims to minimise production waste.

Kasia Kucharska transforms the natural rubber material into various patterns that cling to the body like a second skin in pieces such as bodysuits, tops, leggings, and dresses. Some designs appear as if the wearer has been painted with a high-pressure system from a weather map or a sea of flowers.

The brand was recently awarded the Fashion Fund by Vogue magazine and the Fashion Council Germany.

Andrej Gronau

German-born fashion designer Andrej Gronau earned his Master’s degree in Fashion at Central Saint Martins in London. He was awarded the Isabella Blow Award, presented by the British Fashion Council, for his graduate collection. One day after presenting his graduate collection at London Fashion Week, he was contacted by online retailer Ssense to commission a capsule collection. This marked the launch of his own brand, Gronau explained.

Founded in 2022, the ready-to-wear brand combines playful design with craftsmanship, including knitwear and traditional tailoring. Intricate details and expressive silhouettes complete the collections, which are characterised by childlike imagination.

Gronau’s collections are presented twice a year at the Paris showroom of industry expert Angela Farrugia. In addition to Europe, the brand is particularly popular in Japan and South Korea, where Andrej Gronau is represented by three “key retailers.” His pieces are also frequently worn by Korean pop bands like Illit and NewJeans in music videos and performances.

Palmwine IceCream

Kusi Kubi, founder of Palmwine IceCream (PWIC), brings the vibrant energy of Accra to grey London. The brand’s inception dates back to 2018 when Kubi embarked on a journey to his roots in Ghana, reconnecting with the culture, traditions, and craftsmanship. A year later, he founded the brand, with the Kantamanto secondhand clothing market in the Ghanaian capital serving as a central inspiration and sourcing hub, which was recently devastated by a major fire.

The designer utilised the market to find clothing and materials for his collections, designing gender-neutral pieces. A blend of modern tailoring, refined craftsmanship, and avant-garde aesthetics unites PWIC into pieces that navigate between casual streetwear, regal opulence, and cultural influences.

PWIC is reportedly the first African brand to be awarded the BFW Concept Competition in the ‘Berlin Contemporary’ category. This also marks the brand’s Berlin debut.

“Even before I had the opportunity to present here, I’ve always had a special affection for Berlin. The city has this incredible ability to let you shape your own identity, which I find truly inspiring,” said Kubi. “That same sense of individuality also shapes Berlin Fashion Week and makes it so unique. Berlin and PWIC are a perfect match. The energy of the city and the vision of the brand harmonise perfectly.”

Laura Gerte

Laura Gerte builds her brand on the twin pillars of sustainability and self-confidence. The Berlin-based label focuses on powerful femininity. The upcycled pieces are a mix of drama, playfulness, and future punk, explains Laura Gerte. The current AW25 collection “Looped & Bound,” which will be presented at Fashion Week, is inspired by cyborg theories and the fusion of human and machine.