Cruising leisurely down the Nile River is one of the most popular tourist activities in Egypt. Yes, you can see ancient and remarkable temples with almost no effort. Yes, you can see miles of countryside without leaving your deck chair. But a cruise might not be as much fun as you think, if you don’t follow these tips.
1. Don’t start the cruise in Cairo. This is only my opinion, but those first couple of days cruising down to Luxor are a bit of wasted time that could be better spent. Definitely get yourself a good private Cairo guide, which is very affordable, and see the pyramids in Giza and the spectacular museums, but then hop a plane to Luxor and take your cruise from there. Or go to Aswan and do it backwards.
2. Nearly all cruise boats go back and forth between Luxor and Aswan. Be aware that the first day of a cruise from Luxor involves just staying in port. You get off the ship to go visit the Valley of the Kings and the Temple of Karnak in Luxor, then get back on to sleep. Most cruises are five days from Luxor to Aswan, or four days from Aswan to Luxor (because you’re sailing with the current, not against it.)
3. If you’ve got the money and you love history, consider traveling on a dahabiya. These are wooden sailing vessels like the one fictional detective Hercule Poirot sailed on “Death on the Nile.” This is a costly option, though. Sailings can cost $1,100 to $10,000, depending on the length of time and luxury of the boat. You will feel like you’re traveling back in time. The boats are smaller and typically would have only a dozen or so cabins, eliminating the crowd factor. Smaller vessels can also go places that the big boats cannot.
4. On the topic of money, this is not a time to cheap out. Book the nicest ship you can afford. You’re going to be stuck on it most of your trip, so make sure you’ll be happy with the food and amenities. Do shop around, though, because there are bargains to be had. A typical cruise at this writing between Luxor and Aswan would run $500 to $2000 per person or even more, depending on how luxurious you want to go, whether or not it’s high season and what type of cabin you book. A travel agent in Egypt who specializes in cruise ships can give you the best advice. Also, note that a “5-star” cruise is not as luxurious as you might think. It’s just a nice boat with good amenities–it’s not going to feel like the Ritz.
5. Get a balcony cabin, if you can afford it. If not, choose a ship with a cabin with a big picture window, so you can watch the Nile float past easily from your room.
6. If you have mobility issues, take note: There aren’t many Nile cruisers out there with elevators, so make sure you find one of them. Otherwise you’ll be traipsing up and down flights of stairs several times a day. Go online and make sure about the elevator before you plop down any money.
7. Get your own guide. Cruise ships are familiar with this custom and will provide lodging. This will prove invaluable when a cruise ship lands and disgorges hundreds of passengers simultaneously, and you don’t know where you’re going. Your guide will lead you to the attraction at hand — invariably an ancient temple — and then tell you about it. This is a less expensive option than you think, and smart cruisers do it.
8. Shop around. Prices vary widely even for the same sailing of the same ship. Make sure you understand exactly what you’re booking — how many days, how big is the cabin, what does it include, what costs extra and so forth. YouTube is a great source for looking up Nile cruisers, there’s a good chance you’ll find one or more videos of your ship. I found Egypt Joy travel (egyptjoy.com) online and was very happy with their attention and service. They were able to book the cruise I wanted at considerably less than the big travel agencies were offering. Tell Hatem, the manager, that I said hi.
9. Eat the Egyptian food on board. Since the passengers are nearly all foreigners, your ship will give you mostly Western food. (There were chicken fingers on my cruise. Ick.) There is little or no Egyptian food available on the inevitable mealtime buffet, but the crew downstairs is eating it. Can’t hurt to ask if you can have some. And drink the red juice at breakfast. It’s hibiscus juice and super good for your heart. Drink two of them.
10. Bring apples. If you like horses, snag a few fresh apples off your breakfast buffet, and bring them along on your next shore excursion. Ask the owners of the malnourished horses that pull the tourist carriages if you can give one to his horse. Typically, these caleche owners don’t mean to mistreat their animals, they’re just desperately poor and don’t have enough money to feed them properly. Sometimes, I ask them, “If I give you money for your horse, will you buy food for him with it? And nothing else?” They always say yes, and I can only hope they’re being truthful. A tiny pittance will feed a horse for a day.
11. Generally, Nile cruises stop at three temples en route: The Temple of Esna dedicated to the ram-headed god Khnum, the Temple of Horus at Edfu and Kom Ombo — the temple of Sobek, the crocodile god. (Don’t miss the museum if you want to see scores of mummified crocodiles.)
12. Prepare yourself emotionally for the crowds. Most if not all of the Nile boats cruising the same route stop at these temples at the exact same time. No, I don’t know why, but what it means is a roiling mass of humanity all getting off their boats simultaneously. In fact, the boats park so close together that you have to walk through the other boats to get to the shore. If this image makes you cringe, just be waiting with your guide in the lobby for the first moment you can disembark, and quickly make it to shore and the temple. You might have a few minutes to enjoy before the others crowd in. If not, bring a cattle prod. (Just kidding.)
13. In Aswan, your cruise package may include the beautiful Philae Temple of Isis. Don’t miss it. Also a look at an Unfinished Obelisk, which is surprisingly interesting.
14. If your cruise company offers you the chance to sign up for a hot air balloon excursion, think twice about it. You might be jammed onto a bus with a horde of others, maybe even separated from your friends, and then poured into balloons willy-nilly. Happened to my friend. There are much better balloon companies out there and you can find one. Especially check their safety credentials.
15. Give yourself at least one extra day, maybe more, in Luxor. The ancient history of this place deserves much more than a quick look. And there are many pleasant resorts and hotels. It’s so nice that many people from the U.K. retire there.
16. Your cruise company is going to offer you a chance to visit Abu Simbel, where the temples of Ramses the Great reside. Yes, you want to go to Abu Simbel. It’s remarkable. But going on the cruise excursion involves a four-hour drive through the Sahara each way, and of course that limits the amount of time you can spend there. A better choice would be to end your cruise in Aswan, and then take a short flight to Abu Simbel. Spend the night there and come back the next day. This gives you the chance to explore the temples without the thundering hordes, all of whom are generally gone by noon. It’s on the banks of Lake Nasser and a pleasant place to visit. Well worth spending the night. And then you can see the Sound and Light show at the temples, too. The plot makes no sense, but the visuals are nice.
17. My final tip on the Nile Cruise is this: Just say no. You can actually do the identical route on shore, in a taxi, stopping at the temples on your own sweet time, when the cruisers have all departed. Sometimes you can find yourself the only one there. If your objective is to see the ancient temples, this is the best way by far. But of course you miss the cocktails on deck and the entertainment. Enjoy.
