Christmas is here! Well, nearly, and it’s never too early to commit to memory some keys to festive feasting. Embrace the shortcut, and buy some shop-bought ingredients that you’d otherwise make yourself. Make sure you have lined up a good few dishes that can be made in advance. Indulge the “Ta-da!” moment when it comes to presentation, so let the main course sit centre and proud. And never, ever underestimate the crowdpleasing presence of a dish full of potatoes.
Harissa trout rillettes with creme fraiche and horseradish (pictured top)
The key to a Christmas starter, if you’re having one, is for it to appear almost magically and without any faff. This one can be made a day or two in advance, then tucked away in the fridge until it’s needed, so it fits the brief perfectly. It’s essentially a mix, assemble and serve dish that can be whipped up in minutes. It’s also a great one to outsource to anyone who has offered to help, and it can easily be scaled up, too. Serve with a warm baguette and/or crunchy crudités.
Prep 5 min
Assembly 10 min
Serves 2 as a starter or 4 as a nibble
80g creme fraiche
1 tsp creamed horseradish
30g cream cheese
2 tsp tomato puree
10g parsley leaves, finely chopped
1 lemon, zest finely grated, to get 1 tsp, then juiced, to get 1 tsp
1 tsp rose harissa
Flaky sea salt and black pepper
2 hot smoked trout (or salmon) fillets (160g), skin removed
1 tbsp capers, drained or rinsed, then roughly chopped
Put the creme fraiche and horseradish in a medium bowl and stir to combine. Spoon half the mixture into a small bowl and set aside.
Stir the cream cheese, tomato puree, parsley, lemon zest and juice, harissa, an eighth of a teaspoon of sea salt and a heavy grind of pepper into the remaining creme fraiche mix, then flake in the trout fillets, add the capers and gently stir together.
Spoon the trout mixture into two ramekins, dollop the remaining horseradish creme fraiche on top and serve (or chill for later).
Leek nut roast tatin
This vegetarian Christmas centrepiece sits somewhere between a nut roast and a veggie stuffing. As a result, it works as well as a main course as it does as a side dish for those having meat. It’s also a real showstopper when you flip it over on to a platter and reveal the molasses-glazed leeks. If you like, you can cook this entirely ahead of time, in which case cover with foil and reheat gently in a low oven before serving. Any leftovers make great Boxing Day sandwiches, especially alongside big hunks of cheddar.
Prep 20 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4 as a main, or 8 as a side
2 medium-large leeks (400g), white parts only (save the greens for soup or stock), cut into 2cm-wide rings
70g unsalted butter, cubed
3 tbsp pomegranate molasses
Fine sea salt and black pepper
5g picked sage leaves
1 onion, peeled and finely chopped (150g)
250g chestnut mushrooms, coarsely grated on a box grater
1 parsnip, peeled and coarsely grated on a box grater (150g)
125g ready-cooked chestnuts, roughly chopped
100g mixed nuts (skin on or off), roughly chopped
125g halloumi, coarsely grated on a box grater
20g parsley, finely chopped
2 eggs, lightly beaten
120g sliced white bread (crusts left on), torn into roughly 4cm pieces
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Line the base and sides of a 26cm low-sided round casserole dish or saute pan with greaseproof paper, measuring it carefully so the paper comes at least 5cm up the sides of the pan. Arrange as many of the sliced leeks as you can cut side down in a single layer in the bottom of the pan, then finely chop any remaining leeks and set aside. Top the leeks in the pan with a tablespoon of water, 30g of the butter, the pomegranate molasses, a quarter-teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, then cover and bake for 20-25 minutes, until the leeks are soft but still hold their shape. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
Melt the remaining 40g butter in a large frying pan on a medium heat, then add the sage leaves and fry for two to three minutes, until crisp and dark green. Using a spoon, transfer the fried sage to a small bowl.
Stir the onion and any remaining chopped leeks into the hot butter left in the pan, add a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper, then saute for eight minutes, until soft. Stir in the grated mushrooms and parsnip, and saute for another six minutes, until fragrant and starting to take on some colour. Tip the mixture into a large bowl, leave to cool slightly, then mix in the chestnuts, nuts, halloumi, parsley, eggs and bread.
Put the pan of roast leeks on a medium-high heat (leave the paper under the leeks – trust me, it won’t burn) and cook for about five minutes, until the sticky pomegranate glaze has reduced to a syrupy consistency; take care not to reduce the sauce too much. Take the pan off the heat, then spoon the nut mixture carefully on top of the leeks, scattering it around so it falls into and fills any spaces between the cooked leeks, but not pressing and compacting it so hard that the leeks lose their shape.
Smooth the top of the nut mix evenly with the back of the spoon, again not pressing down too hard, then pop the lid on the pot and bake for 25 minutes. Take off the lid and bake uncovered for 10 minutes more, then take out of the oven and leave to cool a little and rest for five minutes.
Put a platter that’s slightly larger than the pan on top, then carefully but quickly flip the pan to invert the nut roast on to the plate. Peel off and discard the greaseproof paper to reveal the pomegranate-glazed leek topping, then serve topped with the crisp sage leaves.
Glazed baby potatoes with guanciale
These are a play on a classic Scandinavian Christmas side dish, and work alongside (and often steal the show from) all sorts of mains: roast turkey, marinated sea bass, a squash pie. To get ahead, boil the potatoes the day before, then drain, cool and put in the fridge uncovered to dry out. You could also use tinned potatoes instead of fresh ones, if that helps with space and prep: their texture is silkier, and the lack of skin means the glaze coats them beautifully. Guanciale is a uniquely delicious cured meat made from the jowl of a pig, but if you can’t find any, use pancetta or streaky bacon instead.
Prep 10 min
Cook 25 min
Serves 4 as a side
500g baby potatoes
Fine sea salt
100g guanciale, or pancetta or streaky bacon, roughly diced
1 red onion, peeled and thinly sliced (160g)
40g caster sugar
25g unsalted butter
½ tsp ground white pepper
¼ tsp nutmeg, freshly grated
10g dill, roughly chopped
10g chives, finely chopped
Put the potatoes in a pot of cold, heavily salted water, bring to a boil, then simmer for about 15 minutes, or until cooked through. Drain and leave to steam-dry.
Put the guanciale in a large frying pan on a medium-high heat and fry, stirring occasionally, for about five minutes, until crisp. Using a slotted spoon, scoop out the guanciale and transfer to a plate, leaving the fat in the pan. Stir the potatoes and onions into the hot fat and fry, stirring occasionally, for about five minutes, until lightly browned, then spoon on to a plate lined with kitchen paper to drain. Discard any remaining fat and wipe the pan clean.
Sprinkle the sugar in an even layer over the base of the same frying pan and return it to a medium-high heat. Leave the sugar to melt, untouched and without stirring, and after about a minute, when it’s light brown and caramelised, add the butter and swirl the pan to incorporate it with the sugar. Return the potatoes and onions to the pan, season with a half-teaspoon of salt and cook for 10 minutes, occasionally rolling the potatoes around in the caramel so they’re evenly coated in the glaze. Add the white pepper and nutmeg, toss to combine, then take off the heat.
Stir in the reserved crisp guanciale, dill and chives, then toss, spoon on to a platter and serve.
Pistachio Christmas bombe with brandy caramel
Shop-bought ingredients make light work of this showstopping, make-ahead festive dessert. We used our own-brand pistachio paste, which is deep in flavour and saltiness; if the one you use is on the sweet side, simply mix in some flaky sea salt when you’re assembling the dish. This can be made up to a week ahead, up to the point before the pistachio coating goes on; the pistachio mix can be added a couple of hours before serving, to retain its crunch. You will need a one-litre pudding mould.
Prep 10 min
Assembly 15 min
Freeze 1 hr +
Serves 6
Sunflower oil, or another neutral oil, for greasing
1 litre good-quality vanilla ice-cream
Finely grated zest of 1 orange, or of 2 satsumas
135g pistachio paste
3 ice-cream waffle cones or wafers, roughly broken up (40g)
80g shelled pistachios
200g shop-bought salted caramel sauce
3 tbsp brandy, or bourbon (optional)
Lightly grease a one-litre pudding mould with some oil, then line the base of the mould with two long pieces of clingfilm crisscrossed over each other and with some overhang. Use a tea towel to press and shape the clingfilm to cover the mould, and leave any overhang to fold over the bombe later.
Now start layering your bombe. Spoon about a quarter of the ice-cream into the bottom of the mould, then sprinkle with a quarter of the orange zest. Using the back of a spoon, press down on the ice-cream so it fills the base neatly, then spoon a thin layer of the pistachio paste over the top of it. Repeat these layers four more times, finishing with a layer of pistachio paste. Scatter the crushed waffle cones on top, pressing them into the paste, then fold over the overhanging clingfilm and freeze for at least an hour (and for up to two weeks).
Meanwhile, heat the oven to 170C (150C)/340F/gas 3½. Put the pistachios on a baking tray and roast for 10-12 minutes, until toasted but retaining their colour. Remove, leave to cool, then chop coarsely and return to the tray.
Lift the bombe from its mould, using the clingfilm to help you, then peel off the clingfilm and lay the bombe ice-cream side down on the tray of chopped pistachios. Using your hands, scoop the pistachios up and over the bombe, pressing them in, until it’s completely coated, then transfer the bombe to a suitable platter and freeze again until needed, and for up to two hours.
Just before serving, put the caramel and brandy, if using, in a small saucepan on a medium heat, whisk until they come to a boil, then cook, whisking occasionally, for two or three minutes, until reduced and slightly thickened.
Cut the bombe into slices and serve with the hot caramel spooned on top.
