La Playa Hotel Carmel Review and Photos

Up until very recently, residents of Carmel-by-the-Sea had no addresses. Instead, homes were known by nicknames like the Little Wooden House and Rose Cottage. If the seaside central California town sounds like the stuff of fairytales, that’s because it kind of is. And one hotel that typifies Carmel’s storied whimsy is La Playa Hotel.

Referred to as the Grand Dame of Carmel, the hotel was originally built as a mansion in 1905 by landscape painter Chris Jorgensen for his wife Angela Ghirardelli. (Yes, that Ghirardelli.) The property has grown ever since, having been converted into a hotel in 1922. Still, despite its old-world aesthetic, La Playa also has a modern-tech tie-in, as Steve Jobs unveiled the first Macintosh computer prototype during an Apple retreat at the hotel in 1983.

La Playa recently underwent a $20-million renovation before reopening in 2023, but don’t let the word “renovation” fool you: the hotel has maintained many of its classic touches, like the terracotta floors, wood beams, and Mediterranean tiling. It’s clear that guest rooms have gotten an upgrade, however: accommodations now resemble chic Chateau Marmont suites, while they previously had a cottagecore thing going (before cottagecore was a thing).

I stayed at La Playa Hotel for one night on a recent road trip up the California coast from Los Angeles. Here’s what travelers should know about the coastal gem.

About La Playa Hotel

What I Like About La Playa Hotel

La Playa is a hotel for history buffs. The moment I arrived, I felt transported to the past — and as someone who could be described as “too online,” I wanted to stay there.

I arrived in the middle of the afternoon, and yet the lobby was dimly lit and cozy. (In a couple of hours, the addition of fresh cookies and a fireplace would make the space even more inviting.) I made my way up to my classic guest room on the second floor, which doesn’t face the ocean, but the view of the quaint neighborhood isn’t bad either.

I appreciated the room’s character: a bowl of fruit on a side table, a wax-sealed letter containing the history of the property, and an analog clock that won’t shine a garish neon glow in the middle of the night. Toiletries are provided by Le Labo, and there’s also a stunning custom-made “barmoire” in each room, which is essentially a wood armoire stocked with glassware and all the fixings you’d need to whip up a proper cocktail.

La Playa makes a noted effort to wine and dine its guests. In addition to the aforementioned lobby cookies, there are daily wine happy hours, as well as cocktail receptions on Fridays and Saturdays and live music on Thursdays and Sundays. The breakfast buffet, which I enjoyed on the terrace facing the ocean, was a definite highlight for me. There were all the usual trappings, yes (baked goods, an omelet bar, various tartines), but done really well.

La Playa’s biggest pro, however, may be its location. See, Carmel is quite tiny, and yet very popular with tourists depending on the season, and so parking tends to be an issue. With its walkable proximity to both the beach and the central shopping and dining area, La Playa really helped optimize my short stay; leisurely strolling down to watch the sunset at Carmel Beach was a true cherry on top.

What to Consider Before Booking La Playa Hotel

There are, of course, a few considerations prospective visitors should keep in mind. For starters, La Playa is light on a few of the standard amenities for larger hotels: there is no gym or spa on site, so bare that in mind if you’re looking for the kind of all-inclusive getaway that doesn’t require leaving the premises. (For what it’s worth, La Playa recommends Signature Day Spa and Refuge for nearby spas.)

Parking, as previously mentioned, is another consideration. The hotel has a private parking lot, but it was already full by the time I arrived, and so street parking was the remaining option. Thankfully, the hotel went above and beyond to help me find a nearby spot, but it is something to keep in mind while visiting Carmel, generally.

Lastly, La Playa is an old hotel, which comes with its quirks. The biggest quirk? No elevator. For that reason, I recommend booking a garden-level room for any travelers concerned about accessibility and ease.

Who La Playa Hotel Is Best For

La Playa is suitable for a range of travelers, but because of its romantic ambiance, I would recommend the hotel for couples seeking a weekend getaway or stop on their honeymoon. That said, the breakfast buffet, pool, and nearby beach also make it a convenient option for families, albeit perhaps ones with older children, more so.

For employers, La Playa is also a great fit for a fancy company retreat. (Hey, if it was good enough for Apple.) The hotel has approximately 6,000 square feet of indoor and outdoor space that can be tailored for meetings and mixers, with the largest meeting room being able to accommodate 200 people.

Is La Playa Hotel Worth It?

La Playa’s nightly average of $500 is nothing to scoff at. That said, many hotels in the area tend to run high given Carmel’s size exclusivity. And with the cost of La Playa, you do get in return a pretty perfect location at a hotel with interesting history. Plus cookies.

So, if you find yourself driving up the coast and go out of your way to hit the Monterey Peninsula, I’d say La Playa is worth the stay. At that point, I’d probably just recommend springing for the ocean view.

Rating

★★★★☆

Kelsey Garcia is the associate content director of PS Balance, where she oversees lifestyle coverage, from dating to parenting and financial wellness. Kelsey is passionate about travel, skin-care trends, and changes in the social media landscape. Before joining the PS team more than eight years ago as an editorial assistant, she interned at Elle and Harper’s Bazaar, among other publications.