Meanwhile, men had stopped using codpieces for the storage of portable items and created pockets in vests and jackets.
Smoother silhouettes in the late 18th century – think Jane Austen film and TV costumes – made portable pockets difficult for women to wear, and the growing popularity of handbags in the 19th century made pockets for women an unnecessary extravagance.
“Let’s face it, men were expected to carry the money and look after women,” Di Trocchio says.
The rise and fall of the pocket
It took Coco Chanel in the 1920s to bring functional pockets to the forefront of women’s fashion.
“It very much suited the posture of the times and gave somewhere for women to put their hands,” says Di Trocchio.
The pockets of designer Coco Chanel – pictured here wearing one of her suits in 1929 – suited the posture of the decade.Credit: Getty Images
“That’s part of the joy of pockets,” says Seddiq. “It helps you pose and relax, rather than having your hands hanging by your side. The first thing I show a model is how to bury their hands in a pocket, with the thumb hooked over the side.”
Pockets also appeared on women’s working uniforms in World War II, but in the ’50s the posture changed again.
“Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration,” Christian Dior said in 1954.
New generation pockets
Pockets as signs of independence are part of Act One label founder Tara Sutherland’s emerging signature. The Melbourne-based Sutherland designs patterns around sizable pockets.
“If you try to hide pockets they can be overlooked,” Sutherland says. “Because you can’t see them, they can be cut from the production process to save money. It may only be a few cents to add a pocket, but in fashion it all adds up.”
Melbourne designer Tara Sutherland makes pockets a feature of her dresses for her label Act One.Credit: Simon Schluter
“I have made pockets a key part of my design process. They are the hero of my garments. Pockets look good and offer a functionality that men just expect. It’s remarkable the impact that functionality can have on the way you feel in a dress.”
“The golden rule is that they have to be able to hold your phone. I am lost without my phone. With handbags getting smaller and smaller, you need to put your things somewhere.”
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Seddiq is also enjoying success with pockets: her top-selling dress – with increasing orders from the US – is the Luis, with a mini puff skirt that has plenty of room for pockets.
“I also add pockets to wedding dresses, which seems to bring more joy to brides on their wedding day,” Seddiq says. “I have made pockets out of tulle. You don’t want to put your phone in them, but quite often you need to put a handkerchief somewhere.”
“In all of my years designing I’ve only had two brides specifically request no pockets. At least they had a choice.”
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